Hemstitching is a decorative finishing technique in which threads are drawn out of the fabric along the hem and the remaining threads are bundled with stitches, creating a delicate row of small open holes. It is a classic hallmark of fine linens, appearing as an elegant single or double line along the edges of sheets, pillowcases, and table linens.
How hemstitching is made
To create hemstitching, several threads are carefully removed from the fabric parallel to the hem. The threads that remain are then gathered and bound together with stitching at regular intervals, which produces the characteristic ladder of small, evenly spaced holes. The effect is openwork that looks intricate and refined, a sign of careful craftsmanship and quality construction.
Single and double hemstitching
Hemstitching commonly appears as either a single line or a double line. A single row gives a clean, understated border, while a double row, with two parallel lines of openwork, offers a more decorative, substantial frame. The stitching can be done tone-on-tone, matching the fabric for a subtle look, or in a contrasting color to make the detail stand out as an accent.
Where you'll see it
Hemstitching is a signature of European-style luxury linens. You will find it bordering the cuff of pillowcases, the top hem of a flat sheet, the edges of duvet covers and shams, and the borders of fine table linens and napkins. Because it is a woven-thread technique rather than an applied trim, hemstitching has a timeless, integrated elegance that coordinates beautifully across a bed or table.
Caring for hemstitched linens
The openwork of hemstitching deserves gentle care. Wash with a gentle, phosphate-free cleanser and avoid chlorine bleach, which can weaken the fine drawn-thread work. A gentle cycle and low-heat drying help protect the delicate stitching, and pressing while slightly damp keeps the hemstitched border crisp and showcases the detail at its best.
You may also enjoy reading about pillowcases and their styles and flat versus fitted sheets.
This guide was prepared by Fig Linens and Home, a specialist in luxury bedding, bath, and table linens.
